I recently visited Thotlakonda Buddhist Monastery near Vizag, and it was a truly fascinating experience. The place is calm, sits on a hill with sea views, and has a deep spiritual history. Walking around the site, I first came across a cluster of stone pillars arranged in an open ground. These are known as the 64 stone pillars, and while they are part of the monastery’s structural remains, they immediately reminded me of the 64 hexagrams of the I Ching in Daoist tradition. It felt symbolic, like a bridge between Indian Buddhism and Chinese Daoist thought, built on codes of wisdom and guidance. Historically, these pillars most likely supported a congregation hall where monks gathered for prayers and discussions.
Thotlakonda is an ancient Buddhist complex dating from the 3rd century BCE to the 3rd century CE. Archaeologists discovered it in 1976 during an aerial survey conducted by the Indian Navy. Excavations revealed that this was once a thriving monastery for Hinayana Buddhism. The site has a Maha Stupa, several smaller votive stupas, chaitya halls, vihara complexes (monk residences), cisterns for water storage, dining halls, and prayer platforms. What we see today are the foundations and surviving structures, but they are enough to imagine the vibrant monastic life that once flourished here.
The stupa, built with brick and stone, stands tall even now. It was the heart of the monastery, a symbol of reverence and meditation. Walking through the narrow pathways between brick walls, you can almost feel how monks must have moved between their living quarters, prayer halls, and study areas. The votive stupas scattered around tell us that devotees and monks offered their respects continuously, creating an atmosphere of devotion.
What struck me most was how advanced and well-planned the complex was. The rock-cut cisterns show how water management was carefully thought out on this hilltop. The layout also perfectly balances spiritual practice, study, and community living. The site was not just religious but also an educational training ground for monks in philosophy and discipline.
Standing before the 64-pillared hall, I reflected on how cultures intersect. While the pillars belong to a Buddhist monastery, my mind connected them to Daoism’s 64 hexagrams. It reminded me that ancient civilizations in India or China sought wisdom in patterns, symbols, and structures that reflected universal truths.
If you are in Vizag, Thotlakonda is a must-visit. It’s quiet, less crowded, and deeply enriching, not just as history but as a living reminder of how wisdom once guided life on these hills.